Sunday, June 21, 2020
Thursday, June 18, 2020
Oliver's Garden
Entering sophomore, Oliver, would like to share a landscape planting job he did in Cohasset!!
"In the pictures below we planted 4 green mountain boxwoods, 5 oriental spruces, 3 Chamaecyparus, and 6 azaleas. This job was quite difficult due to the location being up a steep hill and the transportation of the trees and shrubs. Luckily we were able to safely lift the trees over an existing stone wall and transport them by a tree dolly and a small Vermeer mini skid steer up plywood sheets. I have learned many things such as leaning the tops of the trees forward and applying burlap to the cambium to lessen the damage when tying a rope to the cambium. This trick of pointing the top forward was a trick my family learned from haulka nurseries out of New Jersey. This is my first big planting this year and I look to learning new things at work and at school next year!"
Great work Oliver!!
Aggie Abundance!!
Norfolk County Agricultural High School proudly presents....
The Aggie Abundance Victory Garden!
In uncertain times, the Aggie would like to step up its community service with the important task of raising food for the community!
This week was a huge leap forward for the Aggie Abundance Covid Victory Garden. Teachers volunteered their time to plant vegetables that will be given away this summer to help families make ends meet during this time of food shortages and high unemployment.
Thousands of vegetables have been planted.
In true Aggie form people have pulled together to help the greater community.
Bob Brol and Fred Bernhardt spent time welding and adapting an antique plow that was donated to the Aggie so that it could be pulled behind a tractor, as we no longer have draft horses on campus. John Lee put the plow to good use and created furrows so that potatoes donated from Gilmores could be planted. The entire garden is now planted! We will be looking for staff and alumni volunteers to help maintain the garden, harvest, and package before being given away.
Thank you to everyone who volunteered. It takes a team.
Mr. Stone, Ms. Fegley, Ms. Forsyth, and Mr. Kane planting some peppers!
Mr. Thompson, Mr. Ruvich, Ms. McGarry, & Ms. Collins planting some Broccoli!
Look at this beauuuuutiful purple cabbage!
Wednesday, May 20, 2020
Saturday, May 9, 2020
Rain Gardens!
Riley B., Grade 12 made an incredible Rain Garden design for her yard!!!
"I chose to put my rain garden in the area that I did, because I believe that it would be the most efficient there. It is located at the bottom of a slope which will really help with the direction of the water flow from the underground pipe that I would install. This area is also free from trees and isn’t swampy so those won’t be problematic factors. Another factor that I thought was very important for the location is that it is located right next to the stream that runs through my yard. This will allow all the water that overflows in the garden to drain directly into the stream. The good thing about my house is that I have multiple drain points in my yard so all the water runoff can be divided up.
For the deepest level of the garden, I chose to plant Deer fern and Red Twig Dogwood. I chose these plants for that level because they both are very drought resistant and are bigger than the other plants so that they should be able to be seen when the other plants are growing on the higher levels. I also chose these plants because I liked how they looked aesthetically. Out of all the plants the Red Twig Dogwood is probably my favorite because it gives off such a pop of color and I liked how the deer fern complimented that by makinging the red more prominent.
For the level in the middle that doesn’t get as much water than the deepest level, I chose Wild Ginger, Lupine, and Pacific Aster. I chose these plants not only because they fit the requirements to strive in a rain garden but how they look and the colors that they bring to the palette. The wild Ginger is a very simple plant but gives a very rainforest vibe to the garden. I chose the other two plants because they have very beautiful unique flowers that were very visually pleasing in my eyes.
Finally for the shallowest level in the garden, I chose to plant Evergreen Huckleberry and Western Columbine. These plants proved to survive in the conditions of the rain garden. I chose the Evergreen Huckleberry because I believe that it will add a new texture to the garden and provide berries that I think would look really good. I also chose the Western Columbine because I love the flower on it and the red and yellow from it give the garden another pop of color."
Tuesday, May 5, 2020
CNN Article:
The human needs driving the rise in gardening, and how to start one
https://www.cnn.com/2020/05/03/health/how-to-start-gardening-coronavirus-wellness/index.html
Ms. Ward's Garden Update!
"My oregano and chives came back from the herb garden I started last year and I have added rosemary, cilantro, parsley, dill, Cayenne peppers, banana peppers, and mini red bell peppers. I also have basil and cherry tomatoes going in separate pots."
Friday, May 1, 2020
Thursday, April 30, 2020
Riley's update!
"Here is a updated picture of the seedlings I started. The second picture is of a couple trellises that I built for the cucumber plants and green beans." R. Bowles 2020
Ms. Martin's Update!
Week 3 Ms Martin’s Garden Java and Mars think they can lay on the plants!!
Week 4 The Upgrade of the garden!
They are all watered and transplanted so they grow even bigger!!
Victory Garden Update!!
"I ordered a bunch of seeds about a month ago, but they still haven't arrived. So, in the meantime, I decided to propagate a basil plant from stem cuttings. I have attached pictures of some of the cuttings as they were growing roots in water. I transplanted them into pots with soil on Tuesday and they are already growing new leaves. I have attached a picture of them in pots as well. A few days ago, I got impatient and planted some leftover seeds from last year indoors. Pumpkin, cucumber, and melon are labeled in the picture, but I planted some beans as well."
Stay Well and Happy Gardening,
Jennie Aldridge
Thursday, April 23, 2020
Thursday, April 16, 2020
Winter How To: Tip for Pruning Grapevines
Winter How-To: Tips for Pruning Grapevines
The Secret to Pruning Grapes
Here’s the secret: grapevines produce fruit on one-year old wood. What the heck does that mean? When a bud sprouts in spring and grows into a new shoot within the larger grape plant, the shoot turns from green to brown by the end of the growing season, at which point it is considered one-year old wood. The following spring some of the buds on one-year-old wood will grow flowers (which develop into fruit), while the buds on older wood produce only leaves or shoots.
The primary goal of pruning is to maximize the amount of one-year old wood on each grapevine without encouraging the plant to produce so many grape clusters that it lacks the energy and nutrients to fully ripen them. Left to its own devices, a grapevine grows to a dense mass of mostly older wood with relatively little “fruiting wood” each year. The dense growth leads to poor air circulation, which encourages fungal diseases. Expect to remove 70 to 90 percent of the previous year’s growth each winter.
The second purpose for pruning grapes is to encourage the vines to grow a structure that is conducive to harvesting and which conforms to the shape of the trellis the vine is growing on. Aim to create an orderly system of evenly spaced vines that resembles the branches of a tree. There are many trellis options, but most vineyards utilize a system of one main trunk with two or four main branches that angle off at 90 degrees along heavy-duty wires positioned a few feet above the ground. Each winter, excess vine growth is cut back to the main trunk and branches to preserve the structure. Grapevines are capable of growing to enormous proportions, however, and there is virtually no limit to the size or type of trellis and the number of branches that can be established.
Step-By-Step
The following instructions presume you’re starting with the 2 -to 3-foot bare root vines that nurseries typically sell in winter. If your vines have already been growing for a few years, or if you’re tackling a massive overgrown grapevine, you’ll need to cut it back to conform to the shape of the trellis (so that it resembles the form outlined in steps 1 through 6 below), before proceeding with an annual pruning regime. If that sounds next to impossible given the current shape of your vine, there is no harm in cutting the entire plant back to within 2 or 3 feet of the ground – it will regrow vigorously the following year, allowing you to begin the training process anew.
Loppers and a small pruning saw are necessary to rework large overgrown vines, but otherwise a pair of hand pruners are all that’s needed for annual pruning.
Year One: Establish the Trunk
1. If there is more than one shoot on the plant, select the most vigorous and cut the others back flush to the main trunk.
2. Cut the selected shoot back to two or three buds above where it started growing the previous spring from the main trunk. This encourages strong growth the coming spring.
3. As the main shoot grows during the coming year, tie it to the trellis using green vinyl plant tape. Remove any other shoots as they appear during the growing season.
Year Two: Establish the Lateral Branches
4. The following winter, cut the main shoot back to a few inches below the first horizontal support of the trellis.
5. In spring, several shoots should sprout from the buds below the cut that was made in winter – as they grow, tie one shoot to each trellis support (selecting for the most vigorous shoots) and remove the rest, cutting them flush with the main trunk.
6. Cut off any flower clusters as they appear to encourage the plant to devote its energy to vegetative growth. The plant will be ready to support fruit production starting in year three.
Year Three and Subsequent Years: Establish (and Renew) the Fruiting Spurs
7. Each winter, thin out the shoots that grow from each lateral branch that has been tied to a trellis support so there is just one shoot every 6 to 8 inches
8. Cut the remaining shoots back to 6 or 8 inches in length. The fruit will develop on these short stubs.
9. Remove any shoots that grow from the main trunk or that sprout from the roots.
10. Continue the process of training new shoots along the all the trellis supports over the coming years. Each winter, cut off the ends of the shoots that have grown beyond the trellis support.
Important Tips
- When pruning and training grapes, there are a few additional points to keep in mind:
- Sterilize your pruning equipment after working on each vine by dipping the cutting blades in a solution of isopropyl alcohol.
- Promptly remove any diseased wood – it may have lesions or sap on the wood, with grapes that don’t ripen, mold, or discolored leaves – and burn it (if you’re in a rural area where that’s allowed) or toss it in the “green bin” for the municipality to haul it away.
- Any cuts that aren’t made flush to a trunk or branch should be made at a least one inch above a bud and at a roughly 45-degree angle (to allow water to roll off rather than catch in the pock mark that often develops where a branch has been cut).
- Tie the shoots loosely to the trellis with green plant tape – the tape will eventually decompose once the branch is stiff enough to support its own weight, but you don’t want the tape to constrict its growth in the meantime.
When Life Gives You Quarantine, Plant Potatoes!
When Life Gives You Quarantine, Plant Potatoes
The pandemic separated my family from our neighbors. Could a network of backyard gardens bring us together?
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